Anjengo Fort: A historical site

If you ever find yourself wandering along the beaches near Varkala, it will lead you to one of Kerala’s most fascinating historical treasures, the Anjuthengu Fort, once known as Anjengo Fort. Sandwiched between the Arabian Sea on one side and backwaters on the other, this fortress is not just stone and mortar—it is a living chronicle of battles, betrayals, and beginnings.

As you step into the fort, a square stronghold with towering stone walls, you can feel the place. Four bastions guard the corners, where cannons once pointed out toward the horizon. In its prime, each bastion was armed with 18-pounder guns keeping a watch as ships passed on the sea. Inside, you’ll find a sprawling green lawn that once served as a parade ground for British troops, while narrow pathways along the walls now offer views of coconut groves and the lively settlement that has grown around the fort.

But this is more than just a fort; it is a stage where history’s firsts were written. Built in 1699, it became the first permanent British East India Company post on the Malabar Coast, the first signaling station for ships navigating the region, and the first site of local resistance against British rule.

In the late 17th century, the East India Company was desperate to expand trade. Pepper, cashew, and coconut oil were the black gold of Kerala, and the Company had its eyes set on the Attingal kingdom. When the formidable Rani Ashure of Attingal granted them land to build a fort near Varkala, John Brabourne, a shrewd Company officer, wasted no time in raising this massive bastion. But the Dutch, unhappy about losing trade dominance, persuaded the queen to withdraw her support. Supplies were cut off, but Brabourne outsmarted everyone, he arranged for ships to bring resources directly from Cochin and Calicut. Even when the Rani sent troops to halt construction, they were defeated, forcing her to sign an agreement allowing the British to complete the fort. Thus, Anjengo rose, defiant and enduring.

But history here is not just about the British triumphs. In 1721, the fort became the epicenter of the Attingal Outbreak, one of the earliest organized resistances against the Company. Local feudal lords, enraged by unfair trade practices and the arrogance of Company officers, ambushed a British procession carrying lavish gifts to the Rani. The siege that followed lasted three long months, with locals nearly wresting control of the fort. Though reinforcements from Tellicherry eventually turned the tide in favor of the British, the uprising left an indelible mark, it was the first time the people of Kerala openly defied colonial powers.

The fort didn’t fade into obscurity after that. During the Anglo-Mysore wars, Anjuthengu served as a strategic bastion, and by 1792 it was declared a British residency. Even after the factory closed in 1813, the fort remained a powerful reminder of colonial ambition and local resistance. Today, it stands quietly by the shore, its cannons silenced, but its stories alive in every weathered stone.

For a traveler, the experience of Anjuthengu is more than sightseeing, it is time travel. Walk along the ramparts where British soldiers once stood watch, peer over the bastions where cannons once defended trade ships, and pause by the sea-facing wall, where a secret passage (now closed) once connected the fort to the waters.

If you are a heritage lover, a history enthusiast, or simply a traveler in search of stories, Anjuthengu Fort is a must-see. Standing between the backwaters and the sea, you realize this fort was never just a military outpost. It was a crossroad of cultures, a battleground of empires, and a silent witness to Kerala’s first brush with colonial resistance. So, when you are in Varkala, step off the beaten path. Let the sea guide you to Anjuthengu. Walk its ramparts, listen to its silence, and carry its stories with you—the fort is waiting to tell them.