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Showing posts from June, 2021

Kappad: The arrival of Vasco Da Gama

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As you walk along the coastline of Kappad Beach in Kozhikode, and you’ll find more than just sand and sea—you’ll find the place where the world changed forever.  A simple stone memorial marks 20 May 1498 , the day Vasco da Gama stepped onto Indian soil. But the story of this shore is far more layered than the textbooks reveal. Long before the Portuguese arrived, Calicut was a thriving international port , trading with Arab merchants and Chinese sailors . Spices from Kerala were world-famous, and the Zamorin of Calicut welcomed traders from every corner of the seas. So, was Vasco da Gama the “discoverer” of India?  Not exactly.  He was the first European to arrive by sea—but he followed routes known to Arab and Indian navigators, guided by local pilots supplied by African kings. Gama sailed into Kappad with three massive ships,  São Rafael, São Gabriel, and São Miguel which was  a sight that stunned local fishermen. Their arrival was unusual, not just for the se...

Uru Punyakavu: Ancient temple of Jaladurga

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Along the serene coast of the Arabian Sea, tucked away in the tranquil village of Moodadi in Kerala, stands a temple that seems to belong to another time. The Moodadi Jaladurga Temple , believed to be nearly 5,000 years old , and one among the 108 Durga temples consecrated by Lord Parasurama . Dedicated to Jaladurga, the Sea Goddess , this temple isn’t just a place of worship it’s a living testament to Kerala’s spiritual heritage and coastal culture. From above, the temple complex curves elegantly along the coast, resembling the sacred letter “Om” as it follows the contours of the land. Legend says that to protect this stretch of land from the encroaching sea, Lord Parasurama built this temple today known by various names like Oru Punyakava , Uru Punyakavu , and Guru Punyakavu . While time has added a few modern touches along the promenade, the rituals, architecture, and atmosphere remain beautifully preserved , allowing visitors to step back into a world of devotion and tradition. A...

Kunjali Marakkar Museum: A maritime legacy

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In the serene town of Iringal , near Kozhikode, stands a quiet yet powerful reminder of Kerala’s maritime glory, the Kunjali Marakkar Museum . This is not just another museum; it is a living chronicle of courage, strategy, and a century-long naval resistance that changed the course of India’s coastal history. As you step through its gates, time seems to slow down. The ancestral house of the Kunjali Marakkars , now a protected heritage site, stands gracefully with its laterite stone walls and carved wooden pillars , echoing the architectural elegance of a bygone era. Nestled amidst lush greenery and coconut palms, the house looks simple from the outside but within its walls are stories that rival epic legends. The museum houses rare and fascinating exhibits : the sword of the legendary warrior himself, cannonballs once fired in fierce sea battles, and various maritime relics from the era of the Zamorins of Calicut . Each artifact is a silent witness to an age when the Arabian Sea was b...

Going back to know Thacholi Othenan: The legendary warrior of Kalaripayattu

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In the heart of Kadathanadu village, in northern Kerala lies a place where history and legend intertwine so seamlessly that every gust of wind seems to whisper a ballad of valor. This is Thacholi Manikoth , once the proud residence of Thacholi Othenan,  the legendary warrior of the 16th century whose name still echoes in the folklore of Malabar. Today, the original house no longer stands. In its place is a modest temple, dedicated to Othenan, his elder brother Komapa Kurup, and his nephew Kelu Kurup. It is not just a temple; it is a living chronicle of Kerala’s martial traditions, heroic duels, and timeless devotion. Othenan was no ordinary man. A prodigy of Kalaripayattu, who  mastered all 19 moves of the Kalari at a remarkably young age. This extraordinary skill earned him fame far and wide, eventually leading to a legendary duel with another renowned warrior, Kadirur Gurukal . The two clashed in a rare and mesmerizing combat technique called Poozhikadakan . Here, warriors ...

The temple of Pisharikavu: Legend of Goddess Sri Porkali

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Tucked away in the serene landscape of Koyilandy in Kozhikode district, Kerala, lies Pisharikavu Temple , a sacred abode of Goddess Bhadrakali . This is not just a temple; it is a living chronicle of faith, migration, and resilience where history blends effortlessly with devotion, and where every courtyard seems to echo stories from another time. The origins of Pisharikavu are wrapped in fascinating legends rather than stone inscriptions. Its story begins in the early 18th century , with the enterprising Ettuveetil family  merchants from the Vaishya community. The term Ettuveetil means “eight families” namely Kizhiyil, Vazhayil, Elayedath, Echarathil, Punathil, Nanothu, Mundakkal & Eroth; all of whom migrated north and built their homes around the temple, ensuring the legacy of their devotion lived on. Their daring plot to overthrow King Marthanda Varma of Travancore failed, forcing them to flee northwards. They found refuge in Kollam , far from their homeland. Despite being e...

The Akkare & Ikkare Kotiyoor temple: Myths, Legends & Divinity

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Some places are not built with stone or by humans. Hidden deep within the lush forests of Kerala, divided by the flowing Bavali river, lies a temple like no other—the Kottiyoor Temple , locally known as Thruchherumana Kshethram or Vadakkeshwaram . But to devotees and travelers, it is lovingly called the Akkare–Ikkare Kshethram : the temple of “myths". On the western bank of the river stands the permanent shrine, Ikkare Kottiyoor , with its sanctity and age-old traditions. But across the waters, on the eastern bank , is something far more unusual—the Akkare Kottiyoor yagna site . Here, no walls rise and no sanctum stands, for it is forbidden to build anything permanent. This sacred ground is meant to remain simple, echoing the life of hermits who once bore witness to a tragedy etched forever in Hindu mythology: the self-immolation of Goddess Sati. Unlike other temples that bustle year-round, Kottiyoor is a place of silence for most of the year. Its doors open only for 27 days dur...

Mridanga Saileswari: A temple for Goddess of Music

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  If you are a traveler who seeks more than just destinations – if you long for stories, whispers of the past, and places where history and divinity embrace each other – then Muzhakkunnu, in the heart of Kannur, Kerala, is the place for you. Nestled amidst hills that echo with culture and legends stands the Mridanga Shaileswari Temple , one among the 108 Durga temples consecrated by Lord Parasurama himself. The presiding deity here is Durga Devi , worshipped as the patroness of music, knowledge, and the arts. The name Muzhakkunnu or Mizhavu Kunnu comes from the mountain shaped like the traditional percussion instrument Mizhavu . Local lore tells us that the divine drum of the gods, the Mridangam , once fell from heaven right at this very spot. Thus, the temple was celebrated in ancient records as Mridanga Shaili Nilayam – the sacred abode of the Mridangam. Inside the temple lies a secret chamber , a sanctum reserved for Mizhavil Bhagwati . Pilgrims believe that their worship rem...

The St Angelo's Fort - An icon over the Mappila Bay

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The Malabar coast has always been more than just a stretch of shoreline. For centuries, its harbors and spice-laden markets welcomed the sails of Arab traders, who carried pepper, cardamom, and cinnamon across the seas. Trade here was not just an exchange of goods—it was an exchange of worlds. But everything changed in 1498, when Vasco da Gama first set foot on these shores. His arrival opened a new gateway, bringing the Portuguese and, with them, the tide of Europe into India’s maritime story. At that time, Malabar was a land of divided power. To the south ruled the mighty Zamorins of Calicut, and to the north, the Kolathiris of Kannur. Their rivalry often spilled into skirmishes, and the Portuguese cleverly used the situation to make their own trade profitable.  When Vasco da Gama sought land to build a Portuguese base, the Zamorins refused him. So, the Portuguese turned northward, where the Kolathiri ruler saw an opportunity and granted them land by today’s Burnacherry in Kannur...

Sundereswara Temple - Glory of Kannur

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  Stepping into Kannur, one cannot help but be awed by the rich heritage and the rhythm of history echoing through its streets. Among its many treasures stands the Sundareswara Temple , dedicated to Lord Shiva, worshipped here as Sundareswara , “the most beautiful being.” But to view this temple only as a place of worship would be to miss its deeper essence—it is a monument to social awakening, equality, and spiritual freedom. The temple’s story is inseparable from the legacy of Sree Narayana Guru , one of Kerala’s most revered reformers. In the early 20th century, he was tirelessly working in southern Kerala for the upliftment of oppressed communities who were denied access to temples and spiritual practices. While the Thiyya community of Malabar enjoyed relative progress under British rule—education and employment opportunities were within their reach—they remained cut off from organized temple worship. Left without spiritual grounding, many drifted toward rituals rooted in super...

Anjengo Fort: A historical site

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If you ever find yourself wandering along the beaches near Varkala, it will lead you to one of Kerala’s most fascinating historical treasures, the Anjuthengu Fort , once known as Anjengo Fort . Sandwiched between the Arabian Sea on one side and backwaters on the other, this fortress is not just stone and mortar—it is a living chronicle of battles, betrayals, and beginnings. As you step into the fort, a square stronghold with towering stone walls, you can feel the place. Four bastions guard the corners, where cannons once pointed out toward the horizon. In its prime, each bastion was armed with 18-pounder guns keeping a watch as ships passed on the sea. Inside, you’ll find a sprawling green lawn that once served as a parade ground for British troops, while narrow pathways along the walls now offer views of coconut groves and the lively settlement that has grown around the fort. But this is more than just a fort; it is a stage where history’s firsts were written. Built in 1699 , it becam...