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Showing posts from July, 2021

Poonthanam Illam: Story of a great Poet

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Tucked away in the quiet village of Keezhattur near Perinthalmanna lies a home that feels less like a structure of brick and timber and more like a living heartbeat of Malayalam literature. This is Poonthanam Illam, the serene heritage house where the beloved 16th-century poet and ardent devotee of Lord Guruvayoorappan, Poonthanam Namboothiri, lived, wrote, prayed, and found solace.  The poet’s real name is lost to history, but the name of his ancestral home, Poonthanam  became the signature that immortalized his work. Believed to be around 600 years old, the house still stands gracefully, as though guarding centuries of devotion, sorrow, and divine companionship. At a time when celebrated poets wrote in Sanskrit, Poonthanam chose Malayalam, a bold choice that turned divine verses into songs the common people could understand and recite. His poetic style, Pana  embraced simplicity over ornamentation. His masterpiece, Jnanapana , remains a cherished spiritual classic, ec...

Thamarassery Churam: Story of Karinthandan

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  Anyone who travels to Wayanad begins with the same ritual:  the ascent through the legendary Thamarassery Churam.  Nine hairpin bends lift you steadily from the coastal plains of Kozhikode into the cool, green embrace of the Western Ghats. As you climb higher, the air changes to crisp, clean, scented with earth and rain. Then the landscape changes as mist rolling over valleys, tall trees leaning into the sky, and waterfalls whispering beside the road start to emerge.  You can’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship of those who carved this path. A century later, the ghat road still stands exactly as envisioned strong, graceful, and inseparable from the mountains it hugs. This road is more than a route;  it is  a testament to human ambition meeting nature with respect. As you reach Lakkidi, the highest gateway to Wayanad, the world suddenly feels suspended in clouds. The wind is cooler, the silence gentler, the forest thicker. It is here, beside the road,...

Tali Temple: A Zamorin Tale

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Placed right in the center of the city, Tali Maha Kshethram is more than a place of worship it is a living chronicle of Kozhikode’s origins, its rulers, its revolts, and its vibrant intellectual traditions. For travelers seeking a deeper connection with Malabar’s cultural past, Tali Temple offers a journey that spans nearly a thousand years. At first glance, Tali Temple appears like a magnificent wooden-and-laterite marvel typical of Kerala’s architecture. But its story stretches much further into myth. Tradition holds that the sanctum, housing Lord Shiva in the Umamaheswara form and the sanctum is in the form of a chariot adorned with murals. As per legend it was originally consecrated by Parasurama towards the end of the Dwapara Yuga. By the 11th century, Swami Thirumalpad built the temple structure and later it was expanded to its current form by later Zamorin Kings.  The region around the temple soon came to be known as Kovilkota,  a place where temples and palaces coe...

SM Street: The heartline of Kozhikode

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If Kozhikode has a pulse, it beats strongest on SM Street traditionally known as Sweet Meat Street , and hailed as one of Kerala’s busiest and most iconic shopping lanes. Step in from the Mananchira entrance and you are greeted by the watchful bronze statue of S. K. Pottekkatt, the celebrated writer who immortalized this bustling stretch in his classic Oru Theruvinte Kadha . It’s only fitting that Pottekkatt didn’t just write about Kozhikode; he lived it, breathed it, and left behind stories woven into every corner of this vibrant street. The history of SM Street is as flavorful as the legendary Kozhikodan Halwa sold here for centuries. Long ago, Gujarati traders approached the Zamorin for a place to set up shop, wanting to sell cloth and sweets alongside the Arabs and Zoroastrians who were already thriving in the port town. The Zamorin granted them this very stretch, unknowingly laying the foundation for what would become one of Kerala’s most beloved marketplaces.  When the Britis...

The Mananchira Square: Heart of Kozhikode

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If there is one place every traveler feels drawn to in Kozhikode, it is Mananchira Square a serene pond-turned-urban oasis that has been the city’s heartbeat since the 19th century and is the heart of the city. But behind the calm waters lies a story that stretches back centuries, shaped by kings, conquerors, colonials, and the everyday people of Malabar. Flanked on all sides by important streets and structures, Mananchira is a place for people not just to see but to feel. The story begins in the 14th century when Mana Vikraman , the local Zamorin ruler, began excavating laterite stone for a new palace. Instead of a dry pit, a natural spring burst forth from the earth, slowly filling the excavation and gifting Kozhikode the pond that would come to be known as Mananchira literally, the pond of Mana. Initially used as a private bathing area for feudal lords, its purpose transformed dramatically when Tipu Sultan conquered Kozhikode. Recognizing the purity of the spring, he declared it the...

Ezharapallikal: The Seven & Half churches of St Thomas

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When you travel through Kerala’s serene coastline,  from the backwaters to the Arabian Sea you’re not just moving through space, but through centuries of living history. Hidden among fishing villages, bustling ports, coconut groves, and ancient settlements is a route believed to have been walked by one of the twelve Apostles of Jesus  St. Thomas , the man credited with bringing Christianity to Indian soil.   Legend, ancient records, and enduring faith come together in this remarkable journey known as the Ezharapallikal,  the “Seven and a Half Churches” of St. Thomas. These are not mere monuments; they are living testimonies of a man whose travels shaped the spiritual fabric of Kerala. The year was  52 AD and the  bustling port of Muzuris  today’s Kodungallur was a vibrant crossroads of world trade. Arab merchants bargained in spice-laden warehouses, Chinese ships docked with silk and porcelain, Jewish communities thrived in their ancient enclaves, yet ...

Herman Gundert: The Famous German in Illikunnu

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Perched on a serene hillock at Illikunnu, a quiet suburb of Thalassery, stands a charming colonial-style bungalow that breathes history through every arch and corridor. This is the Herman Gundert Bungalow , a 19th-century residence that once housed one of Kerala’s greatest contributors to language and literature is  Dr. Herman Gundert , the German missionary and linguist who gifted Malayalam its first dictionary. As you walk through its wide verandas and spacious halls, you can almost sense the presence of the man who lived and worked here. The soft breeze that passes through the tall wooden doors seems to whisper stories of his tireless work and the love he developed for a language that was not his own. Born in Stuttgart, Germany, Herman Gundert was a scholar with a remarkable gift for languages. Fluent in Hebrew, Latin, English, and French, he also possessed a passion for music, playing the organ, piano, and violin with ease. Guided by his father’s devotion and the mission of t...

Punalur Hanging Bridge: An engineering marvel

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Built across the Kallada River during the reign of Travancore King Ayilam Thirunal Rama Varma , the  Punalur Suspension Bridge , the first of its kind in South India. It is not just an architectural wonder, it is a living monument that tells the story of innovation, courage, and trust from a bygone era. This engineering marvel took six long years to complete. Construction began in 1872 under the supervision of the Scottish architect Albert Henry and was opened for use in 1877 . At a time when bridges of such scale were rare in India, this creation stood as a masterpiece of modern engineering. Most materials for its construction were imported from England , while the sturdy Kambam wood from Kerala was used for its wooden panels, a tradition still followed during restoration. The bridge is supported on both sides by four wells, each over 100 feet deep , where massive iron chains are anchored using stone discs. The technique used to build these wells remains an unsolved mystery ...

Parassinikadavu: Madapura of Muthappan

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Nestled on the banks of the tranquil Valapattanam River in Kannur, the Parassinikadavu Muthappan Temple stands apart from every other shrine in Kerala. Locals fondly call it a Kavu or Madapura,  a sacred grove rather than a temple, where rituals, customs, and even the philosophy of worship break the barriers of caste, creed, and religion. It is a living symbol of Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam,  the ancient Indian belief that “the world is one family.” Unlike the grandeur and strict rituals of most temples, Parassinikadavu embraces simplicity and inclusivity. Here, everyone rich or poor, young or old is welcome. The deity, affectionately called Muthappan , represents the spirit of the common man. He is a divine hunter, carrying a simple bow and arrow, content with offerings of toddy and dried fish, the humble staples of the poor. The temple’s atmosphere exudes warmth; offerings are modestly priced, free food and tea are served to all, and the tradition of providing a small bowl of p...

Madhur Temple: Serenity of Mathanantheswara

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Nestled along the serene banks of the River Madhuvahini in Kasaragod, the Madhur Temple is not just a place of worship, but a living museum of faith, architecture, and timeless stories. Believed to have been constructed by the Mypadi rulers of Kumbla in the 10th century, this temple has stood the test of time, witnessing centuries of devotion, invasion, and renewal. The structure that we see today owes much to the 15th-century rulers who renovated and expanded it, gifting Kerala one of its most striking examples of traditional temple design. What makes the Madhur Temple unique is its fusion of Jain and Hindu architectural styles —a rare sight even in India’s culturally diverse landscape. The temple rises in three tiers, with the lower level roofed in terracotta tiles and the upper two tiers glimmering with copper tiles, reflecting sunlight like a divine crown. Inside, the temple reveals a world of craftsmanship  beautifully carved wooden pillars, ornate beams , and stucco murals ...

The Legend of Rajarajeswara: Lord Shiva is Emperor here

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Nestled in the serene town of Thaliparamba in Kerala stands one of India’s most ancient and spiritually powerful temples - the Rajarajeswara Temple , dedicated to Lord Shiva. One among the 108 Shiva temples consecrated by Lord Parasurama , this temple is not only a marvel of architecture but also a living chronicle of divine legends, royal patronage, and timeless devotion. The temple’s towering Shikhara rises high into the sky, earning it the distinction of having the tallest temple tower of its era . According to legend, the temple began as a humble shrine with a simple Namaskara Mandapam  which was later completed to its grand form by King Raja Raja Chola I in the early 11th century. Unlike most South Indian temples, the Rajarajeswara Temple has no flagstaff (Kodimaram) . The reason is deeply symbolic as the presiding deity here is revered not as a mere god but as the Lord Supreme, the Emperor Himself , in the form of Sadashiva . Here, there are no annual festivals , no dhara ...